Thursday, February 18, 2010

The View From the Top

It didn't matter that I had just hiked for 8 hours straight, up 8,000 feet, or that I was drenched in sweat, chilled, achey, and sun burnt. All of that was washed away by the engulfment of crisp, thin mountain air; the breathtaking views of rolling emerald peaks and mystical-looking lakes; the small 100-square-foot, rocky peak I was standing on at what felt like the top of the world - one of five people at the highest point in Costa Rica at that very moment. They washed all the discomfort away.



I could have been anywhere in the world at that moment. The lushness of the rolling landscape resembling places like Ireland, Switzerland, Mt. Kilimanjaro. My mind went wild on a mythical odyssey, a silent, personal reverie. But I was here, on top of Mt. Chirripo, the highest peak of Costa Rica and the second highest in Central America. And at that moment, I was so thankful for everything - everything that had allowed me to be at that place, in that moment of time.




It all began eight, long hours earlier, just at the break of day, where just enough light in the sky paved our way up the trail. The first kilometer, called The Thermometer, was just that. It warmed us up quickly giving us a omen of the hours to come. It didn't get much easier, minus a nice half of a kilometer or so on a leaf-lined trail with dense, deciduous trees, stepping stones, and wooden plank bridges just before kilometer seven - the Llano Bonito resting lodge where one could fill up on water, take a break and enjoy a snack - also known as the half way point.




The trail ascended rapidly, giving us a satisfying view rather quickly. In and out of the trees, up and down, in between rocks and stones, the trail wound. The last two hours we were out of the trees, above them, exposed to the bare sun, creating a slight burn on only the right side of our body. Kilometer 11, "The Burns," was intense. It's that point where you can't stop because you know you are so close, but also at the point where you just want to collapse over. All you can do is muster up the strength to keep going because you know that good things (and rest) lie ahead. At about kilometer 14, after ascending steeply up, you reach the top of a small valley and what one sees at that point, looking down into the valley, must always be enshrouded in a heavenly light from above with a golden glow - the albergue, or lodge, where people stay the night. And no, that's not the summit. There's still two hours to go till the summit.



So, upon arrival at the lodge, we momentarily collapsed, ate some fuel, changed our sweat-soaked socks, lightened our packs, and kept on trudging up towards the top. With it being only noon, we figured the summit is a doable goal for the day, where as most people choose to go up early the next morning, we decided to beat the crowds and go that afternoon. A moderate hike ensued, but as we neared the top, it became steep, narrow, rocky, and quite elevated. Finally we had reached the point where what we had worked for was beginning to truly pay off. About 200 meters from the top, the trail turned to a bit of a staircase, having to use your hands and feet to climb up the rocky face. The summit sign was in eye's distance, nearly directly over head.



Finally, we summited! A graffiti-carved sign marked the highest point in Costa Rica, the wind blew, light clouds swept in and out of the valley, and the sun shined through them. Silence, beauty, friends, peace. What more could one ask for?




A warm, home-cooked soup, and a good night's rest lied ahead. Dreams abounded that night in my sleeping bag in the lodge.


The following day, we took a detour through Cloud Bridge Reserve on the way back down. No photos to share from this, as I was in extreme pain from too-much "downhill" motion, and had no desire to lug my camera around my neck. Unfortunate, because this was one of the best parts of the whole trip. PRISTINE beauty. Different beauty from the summit. But I have it in my mind forever, the true experience, engrained. And to me, that's the best type of photo - a personal one, one that is yours to keep, your secret.


I eventually recovered. A few days later….still experiencing sore quads and calves. But to me, it was all completely worth it…one of those experiences that I won't forget.




I plan on doing it again next year, when the season opens up next November. So, if you're in Costa Rica, come along for the ride.

5 comments:

Tom Stumpf said...

Amazing endeavor! Great pix and even greater descriptions! Sounds like it was much tougher than Gray's Peak...

Unknown said...

Sounds tot fun! Do you think I could hike it in my heels?

marian stumpf said...

You are incredible...just like the mountain! What a wonderful experience.

Jonathan said...

Reebs, we can see the helicopter in the background. Nice try...

Lindsay said...

yes!! loved it all. i hope to join you for round 2! :)